Located between North and South America, Costa Rica has benefited from the mixing of flora and fauna from both continents, resulting in one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. Due to the country’s Pacific and Atlantic coasts, as well as its central mountain range, Costa Rica contains 12 different ecosystems, including tropical forests, cloud forests, mangroves, wetlands, and coral reefs, that harbor over 500,000 species of fauna, including over 12,000 plants, 1,200 butterflies, 915 birds, 650 mammals, and 475 reptile & amphibian species.
In April 2024, Alight Tours took a group of 12 avid birders and nature lovers to the key birding hotspots of northern Costa Rica (Itinerary and Trip Report). This 10-day itinerary included a full day of birding at La Selva Biological Research Station led by our expert guide, Jose Pablo Castillo.
The Sarapiqui region of Costa Rica harbors the richest avifauna in a hugely biodiverse country, and nowhere has more bird diversity than the world-famous La Selva Biological Research Station. Managed by the Organization for Tropical Studies, the property has a great variety of habitats including tall lowland rainforest, second-growth forest of varying ages, overgrown plantations, riverine forest, and swampy pastures. All are home to an incredible 500+ species of tropical birds, over half of all species found in the country in just 6 square miles.
We started our day early with breakfast at the lodge and a few birds at the feeders. With our gear packed and excitement high, we piled into the bus for our morning trip to La Selva. The day was to include a walk along the entrance road, some time by the station’s dining hall, and then exploring a couple of trails on both sides of the river that bisects the property.
Upon arrival, we began with a leisurely walk along the entrance road and in no time had 4 species of woodpecker; first a pair of Chestnut-colored Woodpeckers, then an industrious Black-cheeked Woodpecker nestbuilding in a dead snag, a pair of Pale-billed Woodpeckers working their way up a tree, and a Rufous-winged Woodpecker rounded out what was a very ‘peckery’ morning. While following a raucous flock of Black-faced Grosbeaks, Jose Pablo suddenly became very excited and whispered “this will be the best bird of the day” – a Tiny Hawk! It turned out to not be the case, but more on that later. We quickly got into position while Jose Pablo described where it was perched, but before the group could get on it, it flew and only some had a fleeting glimpse. We hoped this wouldn’t be the story for the rest of the day’s rarities.
As the morning progressed, we were treated to sightings of Short-billed Pigeons and White-tipped Doves in flight, a Squirrel Cuckoo darting through the trees, and several jewel-like hummingbirds including Long-billed Hermit, Blue-chested Hummingbird, a Violet-headed Hummingbird collecting nesting materials, and the ubiquitous Rufous-tailed Hummingbird completing the day’s hummer list. A striking Rufous-tailed Jacamar perched peacefully on one of the electrical wires adding more vibrant color to our morning.
Rufous-tailed Jacamar ~ Shining Honeyeater ~ Green Honeyeater
At the main reception and dining hall area Shining and Green Honeycreepers dazzled us as they fed on berries, and the discovery of a couple of Snowy Cotinga - both male and female – was a rare treat. We were also lucky enough to see Critically Endangered Great Green Macaws flying overhead.
We met with Tavo, one of the station’s knowledgeable staff guides, and he explained some
of La Selva’s history, as well as an overview of the geomorphology, hydrology, and ecology of the area. As we crossed over the Rio Puerto Viejo bridge, Tavo began pointing out fascinating elements of the ecosystem, including an impressive Golden Orb-weaver spider with its 3ft-wide web made from gold-colored silk that is adjusted for camouflage to blend in with the changing sunlight; how fungi are integral to breaking down plant matter, but that also provide food and shelter for insects; and the importance of buttress roots in shallow soils for stabilization and how they’re absent in temperate forests with traditionally deeper soils.
Middle-American Screech-Owl ~ Black-crowned Ant-Shrike ~ White-whiskered Puffbird
Along the well-maintained trails, Tavo found a charming Middle-American Screech-Owl sleeping the day away, a pair of Black-crowned Antshrikes engaged in nest building, and nearby, a White-whiskered Puffbird patiently perched providing great views. Later, within quick succession we had both Slaty-tailed and Northern Black-throated Trogons – always crowd pleasers – as well as Rufous and Broad-billed Motmots. The morning was also bustling with flycatchers (13 species!), including Ochre-bellied, Acadian, Dusky-capped, Social, White-ringed, and Gray-capped Flycatchers, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Long-tailed Tyrant (without its namesake tail), Rufous Mourner, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Lesser Greenlet, and countless Eastern Kingbirds flying high in northward migration. Other birds of note included a Buff-rumped Warbler, a very inquisitive Golden-hooded Tanager, Black-cowled Oriole, and Buff-throated Saltator. Some birds, like the Black-throated Wren, Long-billed Gnatwren, and White-collared Manakin were heard but not seen.
After a delicious lunch back at the lodge, a few folks chose to relax by the pool, while others returned to La Selva to explore new trails with Tavo and Jose Pablo. We didn’t cross the river this time but took a trail that skirted the soccer field and before we got far, spotted another Rufous-winged Woodpecker, a Plain Xenops (worth 30 double-word points in Scrabble!) and a couple of Red-throated Ant-Tanagers. Continuing along the trail we watched as a Rufous Motmot took a dust-bath in the sunlight, but then suddenly, our guides heard an interesting call, a notoriously elusive Great Tinamou. It’s difficult to glimpse any member of the Tinamidae family, they’re usually just “heard birds”, however, our guides aren’t just any guides. They zoned-in on the general location from where the call emanated, visually dissected the undergrowth, and then they had it. Within moments a spotting scope was positioned, and we queued up for great views of a rarely seen bird. Mostly just the head, with its large eyes that help it see in dense, low-light undergrowth, but the rounded body was evident too. Wow! We were jubilant and looked at each other with amazement at what we had just seen.
Satisfied with our views, we continued birding along the trail for a few minutes when to our disbelief, our guides heard another Tinamou, this time a Slaty-breasted. Designated by the IUCN as Vulnerable, Jose Pablo whispered to me, “there’s no way we’ll see this one, it’s not even really worth trying”. But try our fantastic guides did. Its general location was determined, and we all stared into the undergrowth. Within moments Jose Pablo spotted it. It was almost impossible to describe where it was, but he expertly positioned the scope again and we managed great views. This truly was a rare chance to see a very difficult bird. Seeing two species of Tinamou on a 10-day trip is rare, seeing two in the space of 20 minutes is amazing!
Golden-hooded Tanager ~ Great Tinamou ~ Slaty-backed Tinamou
As the day wound down, we returned to the lodge to relax before dinner. After our meal, and the daily review of the bird checklists, a small group headed out on a night walk around the lodge where we discovered Red-eyed Treefrogs, Bush Crickets with impressively long antennae, roosting birds, and spiders with twinkly eyes.
Golden Orb-weaver Spider ~ Red-eyed Treefrog ~ Bush Cricket
La Selva Biological Research Station showcases the incredible biodiversity of the region and provides unforgettable experiences for all who visit. Whether you’re an avid birder or just a nature enthusiast, La Selva offers a rich tapestry of wildlife and natural beauty waiting to be explored. If you want to experience if for yourself, our next tour of Costa Rica includes a full-day at La Selva – Costa Rica Birding & Nature 2025.
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